Monday, May 31, 2010

If I were his World Cup Chef: Steven Pienaar (South Africa)


This story is #5 of 32, in my new "If I were their World Cup Chef" series. Each post will honor one world football player from each of the 32 countries going to the World Cup in South Africa this summer. As my muses, each will inspire a recipe that I am privileged to offer as my gift ... to thank them for making the world more beautiful.

If you are following the Original LA Farmers Market/Monsieur Marcel recipe series, please find grocery shopping tips at end of recipe.

The Republic of South Africa, host of the 2010 World Cup, is one country I was anxious to explore for this series. My muse Steven Pienaar, is their national team’s midfield maestro. It has been pure joy and pleasure to virtually meet this Johannesburg native.

Few girls can resist a man who is typically described as electrifying, and having limitless energy and an indomitable spirit! I was very intrigued by he-who-inspires-accolades like, When he’s on, Bafana Bafana* know they’re in business. (*The Boys The Boys = the name of the team.)

Slight in stature - 5’9”, 127 pounds - he’s even known as The Mighty Peanut.

Ooooh, a food note. This Chef loves cosmic winks!

To say this amazing young man of 28 came from humble beginnings, is an understatement. Raised by a single mother, he grew up in a neighborhood once called a death zone where the Devil is busy. He has spoken candidly about having grown up dodging bullets, gang violence, and racism.

With his mother’s influence, he has found comfort and strength in his devotion to Christianity. His undershirt reads, God is Great and, he believes angels guide him on the pitch.

When I meet him one day, I’ll have to remember to ask if those angels are the ones wearing his red shoes. As on-field endorsements for adidas on occasion, he wears bright yellow, pink, or lime boots. With good humor.

His national pride makes him quite the ambassador for his homeland. As a child, he danced with joy when Nelson Mandela was freed (20 years ago this last February), then again later in life when he learned South Africa was awarded hosting privileges for the 2010 World Cup. His country has come a long way.

While he knows there is still unrest in Africa, he believes that the World Cup is an opportunity for healing to begin. He loves that the world is coming to South Africa. He has said, For a few weeks, at least, I think people will forget their problems, forget the civil wars and have a smile on their face. He believes sports can be that powerful, and that national pride and passion can help continue the peace process beyond the mid-July Final.

He first won my heart when I read what he misses most when he leaves South Africa (as in, to play professionally over the years for Holland, then Germany, now England). Besides his family, his baby (daughter Skyla), and the weather, it’s the food.

It was delicious fun to discover that their cuisine has borrowed vast global influences. Waves of immigration from British to Indian to Afrikaner (Dutch/German/French; Charlize Theron’s ancestry), brought their respective slaves who were from Malaysia, Southeast Asia, and Portuguese Mozambique. Prized ribs of beef were traditionally offered to chiefs of villages. Maize (corn) porridge is a favorite, so are vegetables like pumpkin. My spicy-rubbed short ribs over polenta with savory roasted chunks of yellow squash, ought to qualify as a contender.

If I were his World Cup Chef, yes, I’d know that his mama would be right there in the kitchen, stirring up family magic. Still, if I prepared something familiar with my own touch and pure intention, maybe it couldn’t not warm his heart and spirit. Maybe with his first taste, only a rivalry of World Cup smiles ~ his, mine, mama's ~ would contend for the greatest.

African-spiced Short Ribs over Polenta with Yellow Squash, for Steven Pienaar

3 to 4 lbs boneless beef short ribs, cut in pieces
Spicy dry rub for meat/chops/steak (i.e., NoMU African rub)
1/4 lb. bacon, diced
Two large onions, thinly sliced
Extra-virgin olive oil
Dry red wine, ideally South African variety
Cooked soft polenta**
Roasted butternut or banana squash cubes**

Generously rub short rib pieces with dry spice blend. In deep, oven-proof skillet or casserole dish over medium flame, cook bacon dice and onion and until just soft; remove from pan. Heat olive oil in skillet, brown meat on all sides, then remove from pan. Deglaze pan with generous pour of red wine, scraping up brown bits. Return meat with bacon and onions to pan. Add more wine to cover meat pieces, and cook in low oven (300F) for about 90 minutes. Serve ribs over soft polenta with roasted squash. Yields 4 servings.

**To prepare squash and polenta while meat is cooking:
Preheat oven to 400F, and coat large shallow baking dish with cooking spray. Toss and coat 4 cups peeled butternut or banana squash cubes well, with olive oil and a little NoMU blend. Arrange in single layer and roast for 25 minutes until cubes are soft and lightly browned.

About 10 minutes before serving time, bring 4 cups water to a rolling boil in large saucepan. Add 1 1/3 cup dry polenta gradually in thin stream, stirring constantly. Continue to stir until polenta is soft and creamy, about 5-7 minutes. You may cook it longer if you desire more creaminess. When ready, polenta will resemble Cream of Wheat cooked cereal.

Where to shop ~ for specialty ingredients and pantry staples, I love Monsieur Marcel; for produce, Farm Fresh and Farm Boy Produce; for breads, Thee's Continental Pastries, Monsieur Marcel, Breadworks; for meats, Huntington Meats.

Monday, May 24, 2010

If I were his World Cup Chef: Kaka' (Brazil)


This story is #4 of 32, in my new "If I were their World Cup Chef" series. Each post will honor one world football player from each of the 32 countries going to the World Cup in South Africa this summer. As my muses, each will inspire a recipe that I am privileged to offer as my gift ... to thank them for making the world more beautiful.

If you are following the Original LA Farmers Market/Monsieur Marcel recipe series, please find grocery shopping tips at end of recipe.

Everyone who has wondered who I’m doing for Brazil is very much on board with my unwavering selection of Kaka’ (pronounced phonetically, accent on second syllable).

He is one of our planet’s finest human beings and one of the world’s most renowned and revered athletes, with a variety of awards and accolades to his credit. Now with Real Madrid, at age 28, this will be his second World Cup as attacking midfielder for the Brazilian national team. I especially love him because he was one of Italy’s darlings during his six spectacular seasons with AC Milan, my favorite club.

Ricardo Izecson dos Santos Leite is his full name. Kaka’ is his nickname since as children, his younger brother couldn’t pronounce Ricardo. Kaka’ is also a typical name of endearment in Brazil for men named Ricardo.

His stellar career began in Sao Paolo when at age 8, he began playing with their youth clubs; he signed as a pro at age 15. In 2000, before he made their first team, he suffered a severe spinal injury that threatened life paralysis. In this very short and touching video, his voice and hand-drawn images storytell of ten+1 goals he wanted in his life; he realized all eleven. He credits his phenomenal life to the love of God, and is so committed to his Christianity that during championship matches especially, he flashes his I belong to Jesus undershirt with tremendous joy to celebrate goals and victory.

As an inspiration to children of all ages, he was called to respond in person, to a young boy’s plea in San Marino (landlocked country within Italy). In a letter about living in a tiny country while dreaming of being a major footballer, the child asked the superstar what advice he could lend. Two years ago, the adidas film project Dream Big sent Kaka’ and others like Youann Gourcuff from France (hint, hint) to four tiny countries including San Marino to prove that Impossible is Nothing. On the home turf of this little boy, Kaka’ offered private lessons on how he trained as a child, and further coached the boy and his teammates that, we are not single players, we are a team.

In 2008, he was named to to TIME Magazine’s list of the Top 100 Most Influential People in the World. On the same list was Oprah and Angelina Jolie and for some, Kaka’s inclusion was suspect. At that hour in a story I wrote, I applauded him to say that he is an exemplary citizen, athlete, husband, father, teammate, celebrity, model for youth and, a peacemaker in his own right. How rare to be all of these things in life at once, while in the public eye.

He and his wife Caroline have a little son, Luca. The couple have modeled together for Armani and when he left Italy, Armani said no one will miss Kaka’ more than us. He has also teased that his learning English is, for Hollywood. He is most recently seen, half-clad, in June’s Vanity Fair issue.

If I were his World Cup Chef, I would want to offer him something sweet, to honor his homeland and remind him of Italy. A mix of cultures influence foods in Sao Paolo; two of its strongest lend their gifts here. In this dessert, Brazil brings the fruit, which is cooked in butter, sugar and a pinch of spice as a nod from the Middle East. When juice is added to create a syrup, it renders an exquisite sundae topping for the best Italian vanilla gelato one can ransom.

Now as his Chef, I am just hoping that his fans are pleased with what I’ve done for Brazil ;-).

Plantain and Mango Sundae, for Kaka’

1 just-ripe plantain, peeled
2 Manila mangos
2 Tbsp flour
2 Tbsp brown sugar
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
2 Tbsp butter
1/2 cup mango or papaya nectar
Vanilla gelato or fine vanilla ice cream

Cut plantain on the diagonal, into 1/2” slices. Skin/slice mango flesh from sides of fruit along pit. Combine flour, sugar, cinnamon; coat fruit pieces on both sides. Melt butter in skillet over medium heat. Cook coated fruit for 2 minutes on each side, until lightly browned. Pour nectar in pan around fruit. Allow juice to thicken slightly. Pour fruit and syrup over individual servings of gelato to serve.

Yields 4 servings.

Where to shop ~ for specialty ingredients and pantry staples, I love Monsieur Marcel; for produce, Farm Fresh and Farm Boy Produce; for breads, Thee's Continental Pastries, Monsieur Marcel, Breadworks; ice cream, Bennett's Ice Cream.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

If I were his World Cup Chef: Karim Matmour (Algeria)

This story is #3 of 32, in my new "If I were their World Cup Chef" series. Each post will honor one world football player from each of the 32 countries going to the World Cup in South Africa this summer. As my muses, each will inspire a recipe that I am privileged to offer as my gift ... to thank them for making the world more beautiful.

If you are following the Original LA Farmers Market/Monsieur Marcel recipe series, please find grocery shopping tips at end of recipe.

Karim Matmour has done his part to carry the national team of his parents’ homeland, Algeria, to the World Cup this summer for their first appearance since 1986 (which was just after he was born). Their squad eliminated Egypt in the final qualifying round which has made them as good as national heroes already.

A French native, he was born of Algerian parents in 1985, in the Alsatian city of Strasbourg, near Germany. While he could have opted to play for France’s national team, he claims that his parents are African and he has wanted to play for Algeria since he was a child, that there was never a question in his mind about it. A strong striker and scorer, he has been one of the national team’s key members since 2007.

His current club team is Borussia Monchengladbach in the German Bundesliga, where he plays alongside US national team member Michael Bradley. Algeria is in the same initial World Cup group with the US, England, and Slovenia. When asked how he felt about going to battle against his German club team mate, he gently offered that they could possibly have a slight advantage regarding strategy, since there are more unknowns about Team Algeria than Team US; the US has a stronger presence and, more for their opponents to study. But he promises that every team in their group deserves respect and no competition is to be taken lightly!

Besides all that, he humbly claims that this is an extremely special World Cup for the whole of Africa, and is likely to surprise. Many players on the national teams of the six African nations competing (Ivory Coast, Ghana, Nigeria, Cameroon, South Africa, and Algeria) play for European clubs so the talent is tremendous. He adds that there is a unique spirit and pride that runs deeply in the hearts of all the African team players. They will “run out” onto the pitch with these very special feelings inside of them and ideally, that will yield going deep into the final rounds. His highest hopes are of course, for Algeria because, they are ready.

“Personally I always run out on the field expecting to leave it as a winner,” he told FIFA.

Such a class act. So very worthy of a great Chef.

Since Algeria is a strategically located port city in northwest Africa, it has always provided easy access to both Europe (especially the Mediterranean) and the Middle East. Its food has been influenced accordingly. Throughout history, those popping in at the Algerian table have been Arabian, Moorish, Turkish, French, Greek, Spanish, Jewish, Italian including Sicilian, and their own North African neighbors from Morocco and Tunisia. For me, one of the most intriguing signatures of Algerian cuisine is just the right touch of heat and spice.

I’m thinking something hot and sweet for my Algerian muse.

If I were his World Cup Chef, I would create the perfect late-night snack. Spicy lamb Merquez sausage is an Algerian favorite, and Arabic flatbread is a popular staple eaten at all meals. Roasted tomatoes bring in a delicious Mediterranean accent, as does a finish of French honey. (Algerians are great consumers of honey.)

Oh yes. Hot and sweet it is.

Hot and Sweet Rollups, for Karim Matmour

2 spicy lamb sausages
3 ripe, Roma tomatoes, chopped coarsely
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 pieces Arabic flabread, warmed
French acacia or flower honey

Preheat oven to 400F. In shallow baking dish place sausages and surround with chopped tomatoes. Drizzle lightly with olive oil. Roast for 25-30 minutes. Spoon one sausage with roasted tomatoes into flatbread, and drizzle with desired amount of honey. Roll up to enjoy. 
Yields 2 servings.

Where to shop ~ for specialty ingredients and pantry staples, I love Monsieur Marcel; for produce, Farm Fresh and Farm Boy Produce; for breads, Thee's Continental Pastries, Monsieur Marcel, Breadworks; for meats, Huntington Meats.

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

If I were his World Cup Chef: Vincenzo Iaquinta (Italy)

This story is #2 of 32, in my new "If I were their World Cup Chef" series. Each post will honor one world football player from each of the 32 countries going to the World Cup in South Africa this summer. As my muses, each will inspire a recipe that I am privileged to offer as my gift ... to thank them for making the world more beautiful.

If you are following the Original LA Farmers Market/Monsieur Marcel recipe series, please find grocery shopping tips at the end of recipe.

I love cosmic winks!

Last month, just as I was inspired to include Juventus’ - and the Italian national team’s - yummy forward, Vincenzo Iaquinta, on my list of muses for “If I were their Chef”, the new Dolce&Gabbana 2010 World Cup men’s underwear ads popped up on my radar.

Oh look, I had to smile ... there's Iaquinta, in his new "calcio" briefs, looking like ... a god. What a perfect muse he is for “If I were his World Cup Chef”.

My job is just so easy.

Besides that, I have always been in love with Iaquinta. I had to wonder my usual ooooh, who are you, out loud, when I first saw him play with his World Cup Champion Azzurri squad during the 2006 tournament. After that summer, I followed him as closely as I could with his club team, Udinese. When I was in Italy in May 2007, I could understand the Gazzetta’s Italian well enough to get that he was going to sign with Torino's Juventus, the club whose jersey he dreamed of wearing since he was a child. (I had to make sure that wasn't just a rumor, which would just be mean. My fellow tifosi said yes, Diana, it’s true.) By the time I returned to Torino that fall, his striking image was gracing almost life-size posters in the windows of one of my favorite downtown stops, the Juventus store. I wasn’t the only one snapping photos.

He is even more striking in Italy’s blue national jersey! Maybe even more still, when visiting white lions in South Africa.

While in Italy I also bought his club jersey for my honorary nephew whose name is Vincent, and more than once considered keeping it for myself. Please don’t tell anyone.

To his credit, and I really do love this about certain men in his class, he keeps his personal and family life very private. There is the very good news that he has been married to his beautiful wife Arianna probably since forever ago, and they have two of the most gorgeous little sons. Apparently he wouldn’t mind if his children followed his path and became footballers, and family time is his top priority alongside his stellar career.

Regarding his roots, he was born in Calabria (the toe of the boot), and when he was very young, his family moved north to Emilia-Romagna (above-behind the knee of the boot), which is considered the Food Basket of Italy. Some of the world’s most exquisite food cities reign there, like Bologna, Parma, and Modena. This region also houses headquarters for Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, and Ducati. So, it’s only proper to offer a recipe that celebrates his own class-act, and is worthy of the region he most likely calls home.

If I were his World Cup Chef, I’d also have the posing-in-his-underwear thing to address which, is a very nice problem to have. Clearly, his recipe can’t not put both rich and sensual on the plate. I must do what any relatively clever, self-respecting, swooning chef would do because, she can. It is my understanding that his favorite meal is lasagne. Fortunately that is fairly easy to translate into something sweet and sexy, with his name on it.

A layered dessert oozing with strawberries and cream. (It is summer, after all.)

To add an Italian accent, this dessert honors the green, white, and red of his national flag, which he will proudly represent next month in South Africa. Since he’s said that the highest point in his career was winning the 2006 World Cup, this must be something that will inspire revisiting all that. In the style of lasagne, fresh crepes that are lightly tinted green and lime-twisted to add intrigue, are beds for the layers of incredibly delicious fresh strawberry sauce, thinly sliced fresh berries, and vanilla-spiced (it’s always the spice with me, I know) whipped cream. Topped with shaved white chocolate, this irresistible temptation dreams of experiencing an unforgettable World Cup moment.

As in ... wouldn’t it just love to be set on the table before one of the tournament’s dreamiest men?

I think it would.

Italian Flag Strawberries and Cream Lasagne, for Vincenzo Iaquinta
Note: This dessert is best when chilled overnight or for at least 8 hours before serving; have bar or block of white chocolate available at time of serving. Please do not be daunted by the length of recipe, each step is easy and, the end result is worth every last second spent preparing it.

Make crepe batter:
1/3 cup flour
1/4 tsp salt
3 Tbsp sugar
1/3 cup milk
1 egg
Grated zest of 1 fresh lime
1 Tbsp melted butter
3 drops blue food color
1 Tbsp butter, for cooking crepes
In medium bowl, whisk first 7 ingredients until smooth. One drop at a time, whisk in blue food color, for batter to yield a soft green color. Let batter rest while strawberry sauce, fresh berries, and spiced whipped cream are prepared.

Make strawberry sauce and prepare berries for lasagne:
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
12 fresh large strawberries, hulled, chopped coarsely
Prepare simple syrup by cooking sugar in water in small saucepan over medium heat, until sugar is dissolved. Pour syrup over fresh strawberries and mash fruit lightly for berries to fully absorb the syrup. After 10 minutes, press through a fine sieve, reserving puree. (Use remaining fruit solids for another use, if desired.) Transfer puree to small saucepan, and continue with these ingredients:

1 tsp cornstarch
Juice of 1/2 lime
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp butter
1 tsp vanilla

Whisk first 3 ingredients into strawberry puree and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally until sauce thickens into a glaze. Remove from heat and stir in butter and vanilla. Set sauce aside.

Hull an additional 10-12 fresh strawberries and slice thinly. Set aside for lasagne layers.

Make spiced whipped cream:
1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
2 Tbsp powdered sugar
In large bowl, using electric hand mixer, whip cream and sugar until stiff peaks form. Fold in:
1 1/2 tsp vanilla
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp freshly ground nutmeg

Cook crepes and prepare to make lasagne:
Have a small round plate handy, also several sheets of waxed paper before cooking crepes. Melt a little butter in an 8" round nonstick skillet, over medium heat. Pour about 3 Tbsp crepe batter in center of skillet, and tilt pan so than a very thin, delicate pancake-like round is formed. After about 30 seconds, flip crepe gently to cook on other side for about 30 seconds. Transfer crepe to dish and cover with waxed paper. Repeat process until all crepe batter is used; yield is about 8-10 crepes.

Coat a small (5" round x 2" deep; i.e., Corningware French white) casserole dish with cooking spray, and line with plastic wrap.

Make layered lasagne with all prepared components:
Coat bottom of prepared casserole dish with a little strawberry sauce. Place one crepe on top of sauce. Spread crepe with about 2 Tbsp strawberry sauce, followed by about 2 Tbsp spiced whipped cream and 10-12 slices of fresh berries. Repeat layers with crepe, sauce, cream, and berries (use all berry pieces), ending with a crepe. Reserve any remaining sauce and whipped cream, for serving.

Cover tightly with plastic wrap. Place something weighty and round on top of casserole, like a smaller, medium-weight bowl, and chill for at least 8 hours or overnight. This will press the layers together and yield easier slicing.

To serve, remove top plastic wrap and place shallow pasta or serving bowl on top of casserole. Gently flip casserole over and peel away surrounding plastic wrap.

Drizzle serving plates with a reserved strawberry sauce, if desired. Slice lasagne and lay cut side down on top of sauce. Shave white chocolate as desired, for garnish.

Yields 4-6 servings.

Where to shop ~ for specialty ingredients and pantry staples, I love Monsieur Marcel; for produce, Farm Fresh and Farm Boy Produce; for breads, Thee's Continental Pastries, Monsieur Marcel, Breadworks.

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

If I were his Chef: Luca Toni

It's a first. An emergency "If I were their Chef" situation. Italy's World Cup 30-man roster (soon to be trimmed to 23) was announced today and one of my favorites, Luca Toni, wasn't on the list.

And I got this news first from a French guy who is also his fan! My very first knee-jerk reaction was to say, out loud, he needs a chef! Luca Toni needs comfort. I wish I were his chef.

Then I had this same conversation with my dear friend Nicola, who agreed that there was only one right thing for a self-respecting, swooning chef to do and, that is how he became my muse on such short notice.

Pictured here in his Italian national team jersey (#9 by the way is my favorite number), our 2006 World Champion is performing his signature goal-scoring celebration. He extends his fingers and shakes his hand up to his ear, as if to crank up the volume of the crowd's cheering. He is adorable.

Also tall, dark, and handsome in the highest order, he hails from Modena, one of Italy's most exquisite cities. The story goes that he told his mother, when asked what would become of him because his bedroom was always untidy, that he would be a footballer one day. Apparently she didn't believe him, but how lucky for all of us that he was right.

In his pre-professional career, he played in Empoli, which is where he met his long-time girlfriend, the equally beautiful model, Marta Cecchetto. The story of how they met is something wonderfully romantic like they were at a disco club and she accidentally slammed a door in his face. She could only make it up to him by letting him buy her a drink, which she did. I seem to recall that they have been together ever since.

In Italy, he has played with Serie A clubs Palermo and Fiorentina (Florence), and was the record-goal scorer with 31 goals, for Fiorentina in the 2005-2006 season. He transferred from Italy to Germany's Bayern-Munich club for the 2007-2008 season, where he became partners-in-crime with France's class clown, Franck Ribery. The two entertained fans silly as their respective careers continued to soar. They even took German lessons together but, we hear they (the lessons) didn't take. I doubt if they even spoke each other's language, but they managed to communicate effectively and in turn, have too much fun together.

This last January, Toni was transferred back to Italy, on loan to Roma from Bayern-Munich, and now Bayern is set to play in the Champions League final on May 22 in Madrid, without him. See? All the more reason he might want some extra comfort.

OK then.

If I were his Chef, I would actually set one of my own favorite comfort meals on the table before him. (This being an emergency and all, I'm not able to experiment with a new recipe!) I'd hope that because it would be prepared with love and pure intention, that it would make him just feel so much better.

I would most want him to feel safe, and at home, so my recipe is really Italian in nature, honoring his heritage with typical ingredients, including balsamic vinegar from his native Modena. I'm including sausage because maybe he misses Germany a little, since he and Marta did have a happy home there too. Fresh seasonal vegetables, tomatoes, and soft polenta have their own way of warming hearts and souls. This dish is prepared in relatively short time because when someone needs tender loving care, you want to provide it as soon as possible.

My fondest wish for this handsome hero, is that he remember the truth everything passes. That and the perfect homemade comfort meal, are two of the kindest gifts in life we have.

Roasted Sausage with Tomatoes and Vegetables over soft Polenta, for Luca Toni

2 hot Italian link sausages (ideally from Claro's)
2 large, ripe Roma tomatoes, chopped coarsely
3 cups cubed firm vegetables (i.e., zucchini, bell pepper, eggplant, onion)
Extra-virgin olive oil
Balsamic Vinegar
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Dried Italian seasoning
1 cup dry red wine

3 cups water
1 cup fine (dry) polenta (also available at Claro's or specialty grocery/Italian stores)

Freshly grated Parmaggiano-Reggiano cheese

Preheat oven to 400F, and coat large shallow baking dish with cooking spray. Place sausages in center of pan, and roast for 10 minutes. Toss and coat tomato and vegetable pieces well, with olive oil and vinegar. Season mixture with salt, pepper, and dried herbs. Add vegetable mixture to pan with sausages, arranging everything in single layer, return to oven. Roast for 25 minutes, then pour red wine over foods, stir gently and return to oven for 5 minutes.

While foods are roasting, bring water to a rolling boil in medium saucepan. Add dry polenta gradually in thin stream, stirring constantly. Continue to stir until polenta is soft and creamy, about 5-7 minutes. You may cook it longer if you desire more creaminess. When ready, polenta will resemble Cream of Wheat cooked cereal.

Into 2 shallow serving bowls, divide soft polenta. Spoon roasted sausage and vegetables with pan sauce, over polenta to serve. Sprinkle with grated cheese.

Yields 2 servings.