Tuesday, September 29, 2009

If I were his Chef: Alessandro Nesta

Alessandro Nesta was really my first (world football) love.

In my Gila story I didn't say that at first I mistook Gila for Nesta. When I learned for certain who was who, I told my friends, "I fell in love with the wrong guy! Not all that unusual for me!"

It was Sandro Nesta that possessed me to say (over and again) it's just a coincidence that the world's most beautiful game is played by the world's most beautiful men ... that it's just a cosmic wink of pure evidence that we live in a loving, kind, and benevolent Universe. He was also one of the first reasons I wanted to start this "If I were his Chef" series, but I purposely delayed writing about him.

He has only recently returned to Italy's AC Milan club as a starter, having been sidelined for most of two seasons with injuries. Critics have said that at his 33 years, his career is over. He has been hailed as one of the greatest defenders in history, and is committed to proving he still has more to give.

So since this makes me incredibly happy, this week's story and recipe is for him, to celebrate.

A neighborhood in Rome is Cinecitta which equals "cinema city". This is where he is from and, I'm just going to say that is no accident. He has matinee idol good looks - tall, dark, and handsome in the highest order - and is in fact stunning on TV, even in his football jersey. He'd be a gorgeous movie star.

And, his little family probably keeps him thoroughly entertained when he's not working and traveling. He met his wife Gabriela during the 1998 World Cup in France, when he suffered an injury and she worked at Casa Italia, the headquarters for Italy's national team, and cared for him. He has said that the World Cup ended, the injury left, and she stayed with him. They are the happy parents of two little children Sofia and Tommaso.

With the Paolo Maldini family, they own a home in Florida and come to America regularly to vacation. It appears as though whenever they are there, the paparazzi have a field day snapping photos of both beautiful families.

I wonder, on a regular basis, how so-very-nice it would be if they (the Nesta and Maldini families, not the paparazzi) needed a really good private chef who loves children and speaks decent Italian because, I know one who'd be perfect for that post.

If I were his Chef, I'd absolutely have to offer something sexy, hearty, perfectly spiced, and off-the-charts yummy.

Moroccan.

Autumn has officially arrived, and a flavorful, slow-cooked dish, ideally enjoyed by hand with soft flatbread is what his essence inspires.

Lamb dishes are often a Roman favorite, and this one is extremely good with chunks of seasonal vegetables like bell pepper, fennel, squash, and eggplant for Mediterranean flair. Golden raisins and olives add a sweet-salty accent, and the use of an exotic honey in the preparation, like acacia or even lavender or raspberry, yields sublime results. Tajine usually calls for a special type of cooking apparatus, but any oven-proof, ceramic casserole or deep baking dish will work here, even a crockpot.

Couscous is the bed for this meal, and the regular variety is fine to use. I personally love the toasted Israeli variety, or better, Sardinian fregula if you can find it this side of the continent. Ronzoni's acini di pepe (tiny pasta beads that when cooked are the size of peppercorns) are another great choice, and can usually be found in Italian markets or at specialty grocers.

To serve, dim the lights, sit on the floor with fluffy cushions if possible, light candles, and savor this incredibly delicious, sensual experience.

Just consider it a celebration of beauty.

Morrocan Lamb and Vegetable Tajine, for Sandro Nesta

1 tsp cumin
1 tsp ground cinnamon
2 Tbsp freshly grated ginger
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 Tbsp honey
3 Tbsp sea salt
1 Tbsp freshly ground pepper
small handful each of fresh cilantro and mint leaves, chopped coarsely
Juice of 2 limes

up to 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, quartered
4 cups fresh seasonal, firm vegetables, cut in chunks

flour
1 lb. lamb shoulder meat, either chops or stew meat cubes

1/2 cup large olives
small handful of golden raisins or dried apricots
2 cups beef broth or stock
Water if needed

Cooked couscous, for serving
Warmed flatbread, for serving

Combine first 9 ingredients (cumin through lime juice) to prepare 'sauce' in bowl. Coat bottom of large skillet with olive oil and cook onion, using a little of the sauce to season. Transfer cooked onions to casserole dish. Cook vegetable pieces in more olive oil until just softened, adding a bit more sauce to season. Transfer to casserole with onions; maintain skillet temperature and add remaining olive oil.

Finally, dredge lamb pieces in flour (shake off excess) and cook in seasoned skillet until lightly browned. Place lamb in casserole dish with vegetables, remaining sauce, olives, and raisins.

Pour beef broth over entire casserole and if contents need more liquid to completely cover, add water. Cover casserole tightly and place in 300-degree oven for up to 2 hours.

Served over prepared couscous and, with flatbread for 'utensils'.

Yields 2 servings.

For vegetarian variation, substitute up to 1 lb. of firm tofu cubes; prepare as for lamb pieces, and set aside. Add to casserole for last hour of cooking time. You may also add canned (drained) or cooked chickpeas (garbanzo beans) to the casserole during the last hour.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

If I were his Chef: Cesar Izturis




Actually I kind of was his chef, in the summer of 2005 when Sushi Chef Extraordinaire Travis Kamiyama and I were regular in-clubhouse caterers for the Dodger players and staff. (I was the dessert chef, for the record). Cesar (whose name is spelled with an accent on the ‘e’) was their starting shortstop at the time and, one of our favorite and best guests.

Even before we met him, he was an LA fan favorite, having played for the Dodgers since 2002.

I seem to remember that it was even “Cesar Izturis Bobblehead Night” when we were there and I can still recall his sheepish, humble smile when we tried to make a big deal out of it. He really didn’t want to talk much about it. He was adorable, and still is.

He was a Gold Glove Award winner in 2004 and an All-Star in 2005, both times for outstanding shortstop. He was teammates for a while with 2nd baseman Alex Cora, and together they turned some of the most spectacular double-plays I've ever seen in the game. When Alex Cora left, my heart broke because I was afraid Cesar might be next to go.

He left the Dodgers in 2006 to join the Chicago Cubs, then spent one year each with the Pittsburgh Pirates and St. Louis Cardinals. This season he is with the Baltimore Orioles ...

... which brings me to my story about wanting to be his Chef.

With the regular season schedule of Major League Baseball wrapping up, I thought that someone(s) might need some extra comfort and TLC right about now. At the time this story is going to print, the Baltimore Orioles and the Washington Nationals are 34 and 32.5 games behind first place, respectively, in the AL East and the NL East.

And Cesar Izturis on the Orioles roster.

Oh no, I’m thinking. He so deserves some comfort at the table right now.

I know that his roots, and offseason home are in Venezuela. He is from Barquisimeto, located in the west-central part of the country, which has a strong European (especially Italian) population and influence.

One of his fellow Venezuelans and friends (whom I believe he knew before their time in LA together) is Giovanni Carrara, who was a pitcher for the Dodgers at that hour. The two buddies played cards in the clubhouse while we served sushi and I used to ask each of them if I could help them cheat? (“Want me to tell you what cards he has?”)

While tempted I am sure (LOL!), neither of the gentlemen really ever took me up on the offer. (For the record.)

When he’s not on the field (or playing cards), I trust he is enjoying time with his beautiful family, his wife and two children - a son and daughter.

Or, maybe comparing notes with his half-brother Maicer, who plays shortstop for the LA Angels. I have loved the rare occasions where the two brothers have been on the field at the same time. Maicer was featured in a story I did for (the former) Estylo magazine, about a few of the LA Angels and their favorite foods. Someday I would love to chat them up together, to learn more about their family stories of food from home.

Wouldn’t it be nice to get to go to Venezuela to do that in person? I think it would.

Meanwhile here and now, if I were Cesar’s chef, I’d indulge him with some homemade dessert. I know he likes spicy tuna (or tuna tataki...I can't remember which it is) handrolls and, that one of his own family recipes is made with black beans and spaghetti but, I just think that a little something sweet ranks right up there with foods that just make everything all better.

Slightly sweet corn pancakes - cachapas - are a delicious signature in Venezuela. They are usually topped or rolled with cheese, and a soft, creamy variety or even crumbled feta is used. This specialty is a popular street food and appetizer.

To compliment my adaptation of a local corn pancake recipe for dessert, here I’ve whisked a little sugar, vanilla, and cinnamon into Italian mascarpone (cream cheese). A little spoonful to top each warm pancake melts slightly, and offers both a rich and delicate finish. The pinch of spice and the softness of it all would ideally cradle and comfort Cesar’s heart and spirit (and those of his teammates), which is exactly the pure intention I’d prepare it with.

If all that didn’t resonate, well then ... I’d just have to offer my best homemade chocolate chip cookies, made with love. Those always went over big in the Dodgers clubhouse.

Corn pancakes with Sweet Mascarpone cheese, for Cesar Izturis

Make pancakes:
4 cups tender corn kernels
1/2 cup milk
1/3 cup sugar
1 egg
1 cup flour
2 Tbsp butter
Combine first 5 ingredients until smooth and creamy. Heat pancake griddle to medium-high heat. Melt 1 Tbsp butter on griddle. Pour small amounts of batter to yield about 6 pancakes for first batch. Cook about 1-2 minutes on each side or until lightly browned. Transfer to plate and keep warm. Repeat process with remaining butter and batter.

To serve, top each pancake with a little spoonful of cheese topping (recipe below) and enjoy warm. Yields about 12 pancakes.

Make cheese topping:
8 oz Mascarpone cheese
1 Tbsp powdered sugar
1 1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract
1 tsp ground cinnamon
Whisk ingredients until creamy.


Monday, September 7, 2009

If I were his Chef: Alberto Gilardino

On June 17, 2006, I didn't have to be at my sister-in-law's bridal shower until 3pm. I had plenty of time to be at the World Cup party to watch the Italy-US match before that. I did not know the latter would change my life...

With all due gratitude to my friend Jim Riggio for turning me on to the sport in the first place, I must give credit to Alberto "Gila" Gilardino for my passion for Italian football.

With all due respect to the American national team, I have to admit that I remember absolutely nothing about Team USA in that match. I laid eyes on Italy's national team ("gli Azzurri" = the blues/blue ones) and was fixated, in the best of ways, on blue jerseys for the duration.

Gila scored the first goal and to celebrate, he dropped to his knees and mimicked playing a violin (the photo here was taken that very instant). Everything stopped for his moment, by the way, then I'm sure his teammates charged him.

Mesmerized, amused, filled to the brim with awe and wonder, I fell in love.

I turned to those within earshot and said, "I'm done. Finished. In Love. Toast."

It took me a while to sort out what really happened for me. What I decided, was that I love romance, I love passion, I love beauty ... and his celebration seemed to encapsulate all three in one moment. I'd never seen anything like it in my life, especially at a sporting event.

I swear my DNA was altered at that moment and I've never been the same since.

(The match ended in a 1-1 draw, and Italy went on to win the World Cup, which as most of you know, explains a lot of things.)

As for Gila himself, he is originally from Biella ("bella" = beautiful in Italian; no coincidence I'm sure). His hometown is situated in a mountainous area of Piemonte, one of northern Italy's most spectacular food and wine regions.

He and his gorgeous wife Alice were married in Portofino. An advertising video of Portofino now features footage of their wedding to lure visitors to one of the most romantic ports-of-call in the world.

Their little daughter, not quite 2 years old, has an exquisite name that I'd never heard before - Ginevra. It sounds like the name of a delicate princess and, I trust she wears it accordingly!

In his professional life, Gila came up through the ranks of Verona and, Parma - like his teammate Sebastien Frey. He was with AC Milan for two seasons and is now in his second season with Fiorentina, doing incredibly well and is one of the club's biggest stars for certain.

Italy's national team has also called his services, and with the 2010 World Cup qualifying matches going on right now, I know I'm not the only one who anxiously anticipates more "violin" celebrations from him!

If I were his Chef, elegance and beauty would have to accentuate my offering, I couldn't do it any other way.

Gila's home region of Piemonte borders France and Switzerland. Its meals are flavor-rich, with signature high-end ingredients like truffles, wild mushrooms, red wines, and fine cheeses. Hearty meat dishes comfort in cold climates, especially near the mountains.

In this dish, I love representation from both Piemonte and Tuscany since he is from the former and, his current club is Florence's pride and joy.

Borrowing from the popular Bistecca Fiorentina, typically a grilled T-Bone steak seasoned with salt and pepper only, I've dolled up a steak dish with a little more color and, passion. The splash of purple is in honor of his club's Viola jerseys. (Purple potatoes can be found at farmers markets and many supermarkets now; they are prepared exactly as any other potato.) Seasonal sauteed vegetables - I love French green beans with mushrooms - add interest and balance to the plate. Serving it all with some warm, crusty bread and a bottle of Barbaresco red, makes the entire experience worthy of ... shall we say, a symphony?

Anything to get a certain purple - or blue - jersey to show up on my doorstep for dinner ...

Buon appetito!

Beef Tenderloin with Red Wine and Caramelized Onions, for Alberto Gilardino

Make caramelized onions:
1 Tbsp butter
One large red or white sweet onion
1 tsp sugar
Melt butter in large skillet over low heat. Add onions, stir to coat with butter, and sprinkle with s sugar. Cook over low-medium heat until browned and sweet, about 20-25 minutes. Transfer onions to dish, cover, keep warm. Maintain skillet seasoning and flame temperature for steaks.

Prepare beef:
1 Tbsp butter
2 beef tenderloin (filet mignon) steaks, about 4-6 oz. each
Freshly ground pepper and sea salt
1 cup red wine
Melt butter in same skillet as onions over low heat, season steaks with salt and pepper. Increase heat to high. Sear steaks on both sides, lower heat to medium, and cook until desired doneness. Remove steaks from pan, add wine. Deglaze pan by scraping brown bits with spoon. Cook for 2 minutes, add onions and steaks, and heat through.

Prepare servings:
Caramelized onions (recipe)
Prepared purple mashed potatoes
Prepared sauteed vegetables
Beef tenderloin (recipe)
Italian Gorgonzola cheese/Crumbled blue cheese (optional)
Warmed bread (optional)
Lightly coat the center of 2 serving plates with caramelized onion-wine sauce. Place mashed potatoes to the left, and vegetables to the right. Place steak in center, spoon a little more sauce over. If desired, place a small piece of Gorgonzola (the Italian imported will not crumble as it is too creamy) or, crumble a little domestic blue cheese over the entire serving. Enjoy with fresh bread. Yields 2 servings.

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

If I were his Chef: Ronny Turiaf

Ronny Turiaf’s story is one that I’ve wanted to tell for a long time.

I first became acquainted with his lovely spirit thanks to a sports profile television show that a French friend encouraged us to watch together. By the end of the program, we were both completely enamored with one of his already-favorite athletes on the planet.

French professional basketball player Turiaf was born and raised on the southeastern Caribbean island of Martinique. The son of a former West Indies handball champion, he is older brother to two sisters. At age 15 he moved to Paris to attend the National Institute of Physical Education, where he could combine his studies with rigorous athletic training.

In 2001 he came to America to attend Gonzaga University in Spokane, Washington. Within no time he became a “darling” of the Gonzaga community, by making it his business to befriend everyone from students to teachers, custodians to cooks.

Equally revered on their world-renowned basketball team, he graced their court for four years, and was named Senior Player of the year. He graduated with a degree in Sports Management and Communications and, was drafted by the Los Angeles Lakers with whom he signed a 2-yr, $1 million contract.

Before he began training with his LA teammates, his pre-season physical revealed an enlarged aorta, and he suddenly underwent open-heart surgery. The Gonzaga community and much of Spokane rallied around to care for him before, during, and after his surgery. He was abundantly surrounded by college friends, extended family, and even his fellow French national player Tony Parker (and Parker’s now-wife Eva Longoria).

He promised however, that the company of his own family, who came to be with him from France, was what accelerated his healing. His mother cooked, and the family dined at the table together. While the doctors said it would be up to 12 months before he could return to basketball, within about five months he was on the court with the Lakers.

After 2 seasons in LA, he is now with the Golden State Warriors in San Francisco. He also remains a star on France’s national basketball team. His animated personality and propensity for spreading joy are things he still takes everywhere with him, from the court to press events to working with underprivileged children.

If I were his Chef, I think it would be delicious fun to take him home to Martinique.

Typically, on his home island simple meals are enjoyed at home while at restaurants, European (especially French) chefs elevate their dishes to the level of Michelin Star dining rooms in Paris and St. Tropez. Signatures of exquisite plates often showcase an abundance of seasonal fruits and vegetables, grains, beans, and seafood.

My little fanfare of colors and flavors here gently fuses its blend of world culinary influences from Europe, India, Africa, and the sparkling Caribbean region. The main event, Coconut-Crusted Scallops, is spectacular alongside seasonal, colorful julienned vegetables and heart-healthy brown rice mixed with some black or white beans. The entire entree becomes extraordinary when laced with its savory mango sauce. Mopping up any remains with the best French baguette one can ransom from a local bakery, is highly recommended.

A garnish with dice of tropical fruits and avocado equals more Paradise on the plate ... all inspired by the beautiful, open heart of Ronny Turiaf.

Coconut-crusted Scallops with Mango Sauce, for Ronny Turiaf

Prepare scallops:
1/2 cup Panko bread crumbs
1/2 cup shredded coconut
1 Tbsp fine curry powder, or garam masala
pinch of salt
1 lb. fresh large sea scallops (about 12), patted dry
Flour
1 egg white, whisked until frothy
Pulse bread crumbs, coconut, curry powder, and salt in food processor until finely ground. Dip tops of scallops in flour, then egg white, then coconut-bread crumbs. Place top side up, in shallow baking dish coated with cooking spray. Bake for 20 minutes, until tops are lightly browned and scallops are firm to the touch. Prepare mango sauce while scallops bake.

Prepare mango sauce:
1 1/2 cups tropical nectar (mango, guava, etc) or pineapple juice
Freshly grated zest of one orange
1 cup mango chutney
2 Tbsp rum (optional)
Pinch of cinnamon
Heat all ingredients over medium heat until smooth, stirring occasionally. Press through fine-mesh strainer if desired, pressing solids with back of spoon, for a pureed sauce.

Prepare entree:
Mango sauce (recipe)
Prepared brown rice and beans, molded in individual ramekins
Prepared julienned, sauteed vegetables
Coconut-crusted Scallops (recipe)
Dice of avocado, pineapple, mango, for garnish (optional)
Coat serving plates with thin layer of mango sauce. Unmold prepared rice with beans in center of plate, surround with julienned vegetables. Arrange 3-4 scallops on top of vegetables, and spoon a little sauce between each scallop. Garnish with dice of avocado, pineapple, and mango if desired. Pass additional sauce at table. Enjoy with fresh baguette. Yields 4 servings.